Ask any Indian about best pearl shops and she/he invariably points to
Hyderabad, inspite of the fact that Hyderabad is neither a coastal
area or for that matter near a coastal area. This aspect of world
class pearls’ availability dates back to 400 years of rich culture of
Hyderabad history with an amalgamation of arts and crafts.
The royal kings of Nizam lead a rich life inviting craftsman from all
over the world especially from the middle east, where we get to see
rare pearls in abundance. That’s why quite rightly most people
associate Hyderabad with pearls.
Source of the pearls
China and Japan supply the entire city market with all the pearl it
needs. Raw pearls are drilled, boiled for about four days and bleached
to rid them of their dark colour. Later, they are placed in glass
bottles containing hydrogen peroxide, water and ether and sunned for
four to five days in glass sun boxes with mirror base. Finally, they
are washed and assorted according to their shape and size.
Where to shop
Patar Gatti and Lad bazaar in Charminar are the oldest commercial
areas in the twin cities where pearls can be transacted for. Some
pearls stores present here are more than a century old. Those shops
market mainly stones like garnets, topaz, jade and corals.
Areas such as Abids and Basheerbagh are flooded with pearl shops. Some
of the shops such as Suraj Bhan Jewellers, Basheerbagh, Jagadamba
Pearls (Basheerbagh and Secunderabad) , Mangatrai Pearls have exclusive
sections for pearls. Secunderabad too has its share of pearl shops.
The Simple natural pearl test:
To find out whether pearls are natural, simple dip them in hot water.
Natural pearls retains their colour while cultured pearls tend to fade.
Many pearls look quite similar. But there are certain intricate
factors that determine a pearl’s worth. Lustre and size are generally
considered to be the two major factors. Lustre for instance, depends
on the fineness and evenness of the layers. The deeper the glow, the
more perfect the shape and surface, the more valuable they get. The
lustre of a pearl too determines its price. The thumb-rule to go by is
to look for one’s reflection by gazing into the pearl. The foggier the
reflection, the cheaper the pearl.
Size, on the other hand, has to do with the age of the oyster that
created the pearl (the maturer oysters produce larger pearls) and the
location in which the pearl was cultured.
White pearls have traditionally been popular in Hyderabad. A good
quality white pearl reflects a lovely sky blue colour under
ultraviolet light, whereas a poor quality one emanates a greenish or
mustardish sheen. Black pearls that have a green sheen and baroque
(irregular shaped) pearls that reflect a rainbow of colours are also
amongst the more valuable varieties.
Natural pearls (Those made without man’s assistance) have become so
rare and expensive, that for the vast majority of people cultured is
the only option. However, top quality natural and cultured pearls are
identical to the naked eye in terms of appearance and quality. Only
under an X-ray machine can a trained eye discern any difference.
Cultured pearls tend to have a larger core or nucleus. In all other
respects, they are identical. The best-cultured pearls are those that
come from an oyster that dies after the pearl is removed. Oysters,
which do not die after the pearl is extracted, produce what are
referred to as “Biwa” pearls.
Pearls also come in many colours. The most popular colours are whites
and creams. Silver, black, gold and pinks are also gaining interest. A
deep lustrous black pearl is one of the more rare finds in the pearl
industry. Thus, they are expensive.
